Goldmining

By visiting Takaka Hill we almost reached the northern top of the South Island. So from there we went all the way south to the southern end. And since the South Island stretches really far from north to south, that journey took a long time...

On the first day of our southwards journey we passed Greymouth. Greymouth was the Goldmining Mekka of New Zealand in the last century. The South Island, but especially this area attracted thousands of Gold Miners every year. Most of the towns on the South Island's west coast are former Gold Mining towns. In fact most of those towns started as Gold Mining settlements. Some were abandoned when the Gold thinned out, others remained.

We didn't spend much time in Greymouth though and went further southwards. However the journey is long and arduous and even your faithful travellers need to sleep now and then. So we made a stop near Greymouth at a little community operated camping ground recommended to us by our little South Island Camping Guide. The camping ground was in a small town called Nelson Creek.

abandoned gold mining equipment

Nelson Creek has its own story to tell about its Gold Mining past. Apparently a prospector called Nelson brought a bunch of Gold Miners to this point promising that Gold has been found in the creek. When the bunch couldn't find Gold for over one month they decided to go for the prospector and hang him. Just when they were about to carry out their chosen penalty, one of the Gold Miners, that had not yet given up, ran up to the settlement crying that he had found a thick vein of gold. After that the people were sorry and apologized and in the end named both the creek and the settlement and later township after their prospector.

there a some digged tunnels you can explore

old miner's camp site

Nowadays Nelson Creek remains a little village with a bunch of houses. Still they decided to throw their lot together and build and maintain this free camping ground (donations welcome) at the border of the creek. In the whole area remainders of the Gold Mining past can still be found. Old miner's campsites, tunnels, digging holes, bridges and lots more. But above all there is still Gold in the area. And as long as you use non-destructive, non-automatic, traditional tools like pan, shovel and pick-axe, you are actually allowed to scour the area for gold.

Behold our pointy sticks!

And so we did! Instead of the tools mentioned, however, we used pointy sticks. Not as effective you might think, but behold what we have found:

LOTR Chetwood Forest

As Bilge Rat has written, we were on the way to our first LOTR location on the South Island: Chetwood Forest.

Chetwood Forest is located near the top of Takaka Hill near the Ngarua Caves, where you can look at some Moa skeletons (extinct giant walking birds). A word of caution. There are cave tours called "Ngarua Caves - A Middle-Earth Experience"  advertised with images of the one ring. Neither the cave, nor the tour has anything to do with the Lord of the Rings. The operators just want to catch some LOTR location hunters, that's all. When I enquired about the name, they simply said: "Well the cave takes you to the middle of the earth, doesn't it? Also some scenes of LOTR were shot in the rough vicinity around here."
Our advice: Go for the "rough vicinity" in the first place and skip the caves, 'xcept if you want to see some Moa skeletons...

Anyway, we took the next exit on Takaka Road and followed the unpaved road for several kilometres. We actually passed and missed Chetwood Forest and ended up at the beginning of a walking track leading to the spectacular Harwood's Hole.

On the way back, of course we made a stop at the forest. Chetwood Forest is where Strider lead the Hobbits into the wilderness after leaving Bree. Here are some images of Chetwood Forest:

scallywag

Harwood's Hole

While LOTR filming location hunting, we discovered a 1 h return walk way to "Harwood's Hole". It's an impressive and giant shaft opening which can take you deep underground. Wiki has a awesome picture. It's a cave now, but it used to be a channel for a river. Imagine the giant waterfall that must have once fallen from the edge down the shaft.

Actually, the way leading to Harwood's is quite a fun obstacle course, leading you over many slippery rocks. We had quite some fun trying to keep our balance. :)

Also LOTR filming location hunters before us have left their mark:
They left an old copy of the two towers in the DOC-mailbox, ahah!

Takaka Hill - Te Ngararahuarau

After our adventures in the Abel-Tasman National Park we travelled further up south towards Takaka. There is a LOTR location near Takaka hill, and with Takaka being so close to Abel-Tasman, we ought to go there and look at it.

However on the way up the hill we made a random stop just before we reached the top of the hill, when we read a "Hawke's Lookout" sign. Little did we expect to find the shards of a mighty ancient lizard called

Te Ngararahuarau

The taniwha of Wainui Bay was a horrible lizard-like creature who thought only about devouring men and snaring women. He captured and enslaved beautiful Ruru, but she was too clever for him, lulling hi to sleep with powerful karakia and escaping from his cave. The people of Whakatu helped her set a trap, luring Te Ngararahuarau to their pa (fortified Maori village) and setting him on fire. He fled, and at the top of Takaka Hill tried frantically to dig his way home, but was consumed by the flames. His charres scales turned to stone, and were strewn around the hills, including the area known as Hawke's Lookout today.

And there they were. We found Te Ngararahua's scales scattered everywhere. The lizard-demon must have been huge. And like scaled they looked. It was like walking on the battlefield of gods. Wow.

one of Te Ngararahua's feet

At the end of the little walkway was the signposted Hawke's Lookout granting a magnificient view of the valleys surrounding Takaka Hill.

Abel-Tasman National Park

After the detour to the beaches of Kaiteriteri, we finally hit our destination: the popular Abel-Tasman National Park. Even before arriving in NZ this national park was already recommended to us. And it is easily seen why. It is the only coastal national park in New Zealand and following the coastal track of the Abel-Tasman Great Walk you will pass many secluded golden beaches with azure blue sea. When going in summer at any point of the hike you can just rip off your clothes and plunge into the sea to cool down.


Preparations

We were up for a 4 day / 3 nights hike. In Nelson we already bought supplies, but now it was time to fit them all together with tent, sleeping bags, cooking gear, a water supply, cloths, first-aid kit, flip-flops (for the tidal-crossings), towels (we would not miss out swimming in the ocean) and swim suits in our two backpacks. Wow they were pretty full. And we would have to carry that weight for 4 days. Yikes. Lucky we invested in professional balanced backpacks. It was still tough, but doable.

our backpacks were so high, we could hide behind them

Day One: Marahau - Torrent Bay
15 km / 6 h

All prepared we put our backpacks on and set foot on the Abel-Tasman Great Walk. Our first view was a vast view of a low tide-beach:

Crossing the beach, we found us on a trail along the shoreline. On our left thick green vegetation and our right the beautiful blue sea.

thick vegetation to the left

azure blue sea to the right

Wow what a view. It was really beautiful and also nice to walk, because the trees provided us with shade from the sun. Both sides have their charme. For example we found this picturesque little waterfall with pond, where bilge rat cooled her feet, while I was watching from the bridge.

The path was also fairly easy to walk. The altitude differs between sea level and ~120 meters, so no steep climbs. Also the paths are well formed preserved. That made the walk much easier than Lake Waikaremoana, and the weight much easier to carry.

In front of us was a German couple that was probably on their first walking trip. The girl was more dressed for shopping and we overheard her saying that she should have made her nails for the walk. Btw: there are so many Germans here that Kiwis started to jest that Germany must be empty by now.

With the day progressing we grew weary from walking with the weight. Good balanced or not, the packs surely were heavy. We were overjoyed when we reached Anchorage. While not our rest stop for the night, Anchorage was only 1 hour away from Torrent Bay at best and provided us with cooking and toilet facilities. So we called for a longer break, prepared some food and later went swimming in the ocean.

The story of C
While we were using the kitchen at Anchorage another guy entered and started unpacking some cooking gear. He introduced himself as C. He seemed a very friendly Kiwi lad and had some interesting stories to tell. He told us he was half Maori and worked in fruit picking for the last years. Now he decided to stop, because he has seen the devastating effects of the pesticides/herbicides used. For example he once found a mutated bird. When asked his Boss said, when you see a nest on the plantation, it's better to smash the eggs. "They're better off that way, believe me"...
It was a nice little chat. Afterwards we decided to go for a swim in the ocean. But when we announced our plan, C hurried to finish his meal and wanted to tag along. Strangely after that he more and more started to stick to our every step. He swam with us, lied on the beach with us and all the while continued telling us more and more outrageous stories. In the end, learning that we are German, suddenly started to have a German sister. Before however his mother was Maori and his father Irish. So we grew more and more suspicious of him. Alas we already told him where we were gonna spend the night, before we grew cautious. He wanted to join us to Torrent Bay at first. Growing afraid, we thought of a plan to at least have some privacy to talk and plan, so courageous bilge rat asked him, if he would mind giving us some private time, being on this trip as a couple and all.
That gave us some time to think. We decided to find the local ranger and ask for help. But when we found the ranger, guess what, he was busy talking to C. They talked for a very long time. Afterwards we managed to sneak past C and tracked down the ranger at another part of Anchorage. He calmed us that C was no dangerous person. Just a little confused and up to abuse special Maori-rights to avoid paying national park fees and camping fees. He told us C was local here and probably harmless. Nonetheless he offered us to stay at Anchorage for the night, where he could watch over us. But calming down we decided to walk on the bit to Torrent Bay and spend the night there. The next day would be hard enough!

On the way through Anchorage one more person stopped us. A girl seemed to recognize me from somewhere. It was quite funny and went a bit like this:
Girl: "I think I know you from somewhere!"
Scallywag: "You do? Hmm where you from?"
Girl: "Germany"
Scallywag: "Oh then we can talk in German"
Girl: "Cool, Okay"
Girl: "Where in Germany are you from?"
Scallywag: "Near Passau"
Girl: "Me, too. Which school?"
Scallywag: "MSG"
Girl: "Ahm, well me too."
Scallywag: "Really? Which year did you graduate?"
Girl: "2003."
Scallywag: "Shit, we were in the same grade!"
Girl: "Yep, that's what I thought. I had recognized you from somewhere and your name rings a bell"
Scallywag: "Now that you say it, yours too. I think we had some classes together"
What are the chances of meeting an old schoolmate, who was in the same grade/class with you, ten thousand miles away on some secluded beach in a national park? Wow!

It was time for our first tidal crossing! We made a long stop at Anchorage because we had to wait for low tide. Low tide crossings are one of the reasons to do the Abel Tasman Walk. They are so amazing! The way the bottom of the ocean becomes bear and hundreds of mini-crabs scurry from their hidey-holes. But don't worry, you won't step on one, because the vibration of your steps give them enough warning to hide. It was amazing to see they way the path cleared of crabs in front of you. Scallywag: "RAWR, I'm a giant trampling DINOSAUR".

Anyway, we reached Torrent Bay just before dawn, where we set up our tent next to two friendly boys. We had already met the boys before hiking on the Queen Charlotte Track. We prepared dinner and exchanged some stories with them about travelling in New Zealand. It was a nice evening and a very good sleep after such a crazy day.

........
log by scallywag
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Day Two: Torrent Bay - Awaroa
20 km / 7-8 h

On the morning of our second day, we knew that we had a long way ahead of us. We went off at about 9 am.
We past a small gathering of holiday houses and continued along the path, which had many, many side tracks to very beautiful beaches. Late morning we stopped at one beach to cool ourself off.

We swam across unknowing that the tide was coming in.  Just 10 minutes later we had trouble coming back! The current pushed us inwards, so the we didn't arrive directly opposite from where we started. Just a bit longer and we wouldn't have been able to get back to our stuff :D

Refreshed we pressed on. Unfortunately my left boot was giving me some trouble. I was developing huge blisters. Never wait to put on a blister patch! But the pain coulnd't stop me from enjoying the spectacular views and the curiosity of nature.

We pushed on until Onetahuti Bay, where we had to wait for low tide again. Strengthening ourself with a good meal we lazed on the beach afterwards enjoying the golden sand and the crystal clear waters.

With our spyglass we spotted the path leading toward the tidal crossing. It was a tiny crossing. We were amused by a young group of spanish girls who made several attempts to cross the tiny rivulets of water without taking of their shoes, but always jumping back. One good thing to know: it's a pain to go tramping with wet shoes. Comfortable, dry shoes are the very basis of a good, enjoyable walk.
We still had three and a half hours till our camp! After climbing a saddle the path split into two. Deciding for a change we left the DOC track and took the private path, which eventually led to a tiny empty resort. One thing we learned during our travels, the kiwis are very spare with direction signs! We had to search for someone to ask for directions because our maps were no help on this side of the track. It's always a bit scary to feel lost in an isolated, deserted place. Eventually we found someone who helped us. Relieved, we continued on the the second tidal crossing of that day. It was the longest of them all! Exhausted from a good day of tramping we arrived at Awaroa Camp Site. When we pitched our tent it was already almost dark and just as we were inside, it started to rain. We heard some commotion at the hut nearby, but we were way too tired to go look what the noise was all about. Turned out to be a small gathering; with the local Maori boys persuaded to do the haka at one point. So we got to at least hear, if not see the haka :D After the haka I heard an elderly saying that was the worst haka he has ever seen :D

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log Bilge Rat
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Day Three: Awaroa Inlet to Totaranui
1h 30 min

Although we originally planned to overnight at one more camp site further up the track, we were forced to end our Walk on the third day. My blisters were giving me a lot of pain, making it a pain to walk. Unfortunately I couldn't stand the pain any more, so we decided to catch a water taxi back from Totaranui.
Arriving at Totaranui, it was a complete contrast to the tranquil and serene track. Totaranui is a popular Holiday park located in the National Park. It is accessible by car, so there were many families holidaying here.
We searched for the public telephones, because they allow you to free-call the water taxi's hotlines. We contacted our chosen company and were able to change our pick up time. That left us 3 hours to relax and wait for the jetboat's arrival. We couldn't resist and went for a little dip in the ocean again :) Also we met a young sympathetic German, who told us that he's hiking to the end and back to the beginning (5 days altogether) because he couldn't afford a water taxi. Respect!
They journey on the boat back was a very enjoyable addition to tramping the track. We were lucky that our skipper was experienced because he managed to delicately steer the boat into a  jaw-droppingly beautiful lagoon. Unfortunately we imposed on a couple who were "enjoying some private time" xD The lagoon was really something out of paradise:

It'a also a favourite resting place of big fat lazy sea lions :D Our skipper also managed to point out a penguin and a rock curiosty

they call it the ninja turtle rock

The way to the car park was also an experience in itself. Arriving at the dock, instead of getting out of the boat they managed to dock the jet boat to a pulling truck and then drove us, loaded onto the truck, to the car park. It was quite fun :D

At the car park we took a fellow tramper with us to "The Barn" where we wanted to take a shower again. It was my time for a coincidental encounter, because I found out that the girl studied at my university and we had mutual friends!
After our long awaited, refreshing shower we were back on the road!

Kaiteriteri

Of course we took the detour. We were in no hurry, we planned to start the Abel-Tasman Great Walk tomorrow, so we had the remaining day left for exploring.

Kaiteriteri

The detour is not big, but totally worth it. Kaiteriteri is a small village between Motueka and Marahau (the entrance point to Abel-Tasman). The village is not very spectacular, but the beaches of Kaiteriteri certainly are.

They are not as golden as at Golden Bay or as picturesque as at Abel-Tasman, but they have their very own unique character because of countless little clams. The tide at Kaiteriteri allows clams to spend the low tide on large rocks at the beach. Thus when walking the beach at low tide, the beach is almost black of clams. It is hard to move without stepping on them. There are just so many. They also come in all kinds of different sizes. From clams so small you can barely see them to real big ones.

Bilge Rat and I further went on an exploration tour. There are so many rocks, that they block most parts of the beach. But pirate explorers like us don't let us be stopped by some pile o' rocks. So we just climbed over them and discovered a secret hideout and a cave.

after some rock climbing...

...we discovered a hidden hideout

It seems not many people do the detour over Kaiteriteri, since we've been the only ones at the beach, safe a fisherman trying his luck fishing from the rocks.

the secluded beach behind the rocks

we also discovered some really strange maritime insects

Motueka

From Nelson we headed further up to the top of the South Island. Our destination: the popular Abel-Tasman National Park.
But on the way, we passed some interesting spots worth mentioning. Our first stop was at

Motueka

Motueka is another wonderful blissful little township near Nelson. Although we hardly spent time there, we fell for its charm. The houses look really cheerful, the main street is filed with life and artistry and people here seem to be much more aware about their environment, than elsewhere. Again we found many regional, organic and fair-trade products, we saw recycling centres and second hand shops. We especially loved a little shop, just outside of town, called Toad Hall. They had everything from fresh regional organic vegetables to freshly made yummy meals. When you pass Motueka the Toad Hall is a must visit.

From Motueka the road took us further up south to an intersection with a choice: a direct quick road to Abel-Tasman on the left or a windy detour passing the beaches of Kaiteriteri on the right. Which one shall it be?

Nelson

After our hike on the Queen Charlotte Track, aka the great run to the toilet, we headed further west towards Nelson.

We very quickly grew to like Nelson for a number of reasons. We found a lot of organic, fair trade and regional products even in the ordinary supermarket, we found quite alternative cafés and restaurants, including vegetarian one's, we found second hand stores and the flair of the town was quite but artistic. A really nice little place on the South Island. 

We dined at a café called Zippy's Café named after Zippy the pinhead a strange philosophical comic character. Nonetheless the food was great. There is no menu. The owner's simply cook delicious meals in their kitchen, which is then on display in a shelf. We went for some yummy zucchini rice.

Nelson also has real Internet Café with reasonable per hour costs. Just outside town, there is a skate park. Right next to it overnight camping is allowed. That's where we stayed for the night.
But before that we checked out the local visitor information centre and made our bookings for the Abel-Tasman national park in two days. Then we stocked up on some food and equipment for our next Great Walk, browsed some more through the streets of the city and then went to sleep.

The next day we decided to see some more of Nelson and looked for some open air museum called Founders Heritage Park, the brochure of which we had picked up in the i-Site the other day.

Founders Heritage Park

The Founders Heritage Park is an open air museum, where the people of Nelson tried to conserve the original buildings and the original flair of the old Nelson, when Nelson moved into a new age. A really nice idea that paid off quite well. The park is definitely worth a visit. Also what we liked best was, that as project carried by the people of Nelson, the entrance is free for Nelson citizens and some of the old buildings are still used by Nelson artisans, who decided to follow their trade in that style.

Thus you can buy real bread and confectionery at the bakery, real cloth at the tailor, real porcelain at the pottery, etc.

The old school house is also used as a real school for Nelson's children.

And the park grounds are used for festivals and other events. Check the Founders Heritage Park website's schedule for events.

Special care was laid to the old port, where a movie and plenty of displays vividly narrate the history of Nelson's port and the inseparable connection between the town's success and naval trade.

Also really cool was the display of an old Bristol Freighter with NZ invented cargon transfer system. The mouth of the plane could open and load cars or cargo. A special rails-to-belt system allowed incredible fast unloading and reloading time of 8 minutes till the plane could start again. The airline was called SAFE (Straits Air Freight Express) and for many years carried cars and cargo between the two NZ islands.

Bilge Rat immediately felt at home, sat down and read the newspaper

Well in the end your dear old Scallywag messed with the old Sheriff and was put on display....

while Bilge Rat instead of freeing me, went to the old Photographer's and asked him to make a nice portrait picture of her beauty...